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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate renowned award-winning names. Yet, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary honour.